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Living And Working In Hong Kong

Schools

Rachel Wright lived and worked in Hong Kong for many years, and has also enjoyed living and working in Beijing. She has written on education and social issues for the South China Morning Post.

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SCHOOLS

Pre-schools and kindergartens

Many international schools, including ESF primary schools, have a kindergarten attached to them that acts as an unofficial ‘feeder’ to the primary, taking children from three or four years old. Another prominent group are the Woodlands pre-schools (www.woodlandschools.com), based in locations with large expat populations, that take children from two years upwards and includes Montessori-style teaching in some centres. A popular pre-school on the South side that doesn’t advertise is the stand-alone Montessori for Children at Stanley (tel. 2813 9589). The school has a waiting list and takes children between two-and-a-half and six years old.

The HKPPA offers open play for 3–5 year olds on Monday, Wednesday and Friday afternoons at their centre in Mid-Levels, but children must be accompanied. At the same location is City Kidz, a class staffed by qualified supervisors and trainees studying to be kindergarten teachers. One or two parents are on volunteer duty every morning as assistants. Charges are around $2,500 per month if a parent helps on a rota basis or $3,300 per month if they do not – both very reasonable by Hong Kong standards. Other HKPPA-affiliated pre-schools include Earlybirds at Taipo, Leapfrog at Sai Kung (tel. 2791 1540) and the Sai Kung Pre-School Group (tel. 2791 7354), which offers classes for children between 18 months and five years old based on the learning-through-play philosophy. See www.hkwithkids.com/kindy.htm for other groups.

The YMCA in TST (www.ymcahk.org.hk; tel. 2899 2912) runs an English-language Toddlers World for children between 18 months and three years old and an International Kindergarten for children between 32 months and six years old. The kindergarten year starts in September and costs $4,324–7,640 per month.

Tutor Time International Nursery and Kindergarten (www.tutortime.com.hk) has received praise from parents. There are pre-schools at Kowloon Tong (tel. 2337 0822) and Red Hill Plaza, Tai Tam (tel. 2529 1188). Benefits include exposure to Mandarin and a web facility allowing parents to check on their children from the office.

Poco’s Fun Club is an umbrella organization that offers members discounts on many playgroups, classes, shops and events (www.pocosfunclub.com; tel. 2899 2912).

Pre-school support for children with special needs

Although Hong Kong does not have the same level of resources as a typical national health and education system has, there are places that parents can seek advice, support and help for their special needs children, especially younger ones. Mathilda Child Development Centre (http://mcdchk.com; tel. 2849 6138) is a non-profit-making centre that offers education for young children with learning difficulties. There are also parent counselling and training courses for pre-school teachers.

Quite a few expat mums are involved on a voluntary basis with Watchdog Early Learning and Development Centre in Borrett Road (www.watchdog.org.hk; tel. 2521 7364/5), which was set up to provide a pre-school programme for special needs children with cerebral palsy, hyperactivity, Down’s syndrome, autism and learning difficulties. They advise parents and prepare youngsters for entry into the regular school system.

The HK Association for Parents of Gifted Children has details of courses and child development centres on its website (www.gifted.org.hk).

International schools

There is quite a large choice of private day schooling available in Hong Kong for parents who do not wish to put their children in boarding school. Over 50 international schools cater to the needs of expatriate communities, offering several different Western educational cultures. Schools include:

  • Hong Kong International School – American curriculum;
  • Kellett School – British curriculum;
  • Chinese International School – International Baccalaureate curriculum;
  • French International School – French and International Baccalaureate curriculum;
  • German Swiss International School – German and British curriculum; and
  • The Carmel School – the only Jewish day school in south-east Asia; teaches Jewish studies and Hebrew as a second language.

The ESF runs 20 schools, including the well-regarded Island, Bradbury and Kennedy schools, using the British curriculum and the International Baccalaureate at selected schools. It is popular with parents not only because of the good reputation of its schools, but also because its fees are lower than most other international schools due to local government subvention. This may change, as the government looks to trim its education spending, but there is a need for affordable English-language schooling for non-Chinese (Cantonese) speaking children, Hong Kong returnees and locals who do not wish to put their children into the local education system. More information about ESF schools can be found on their website, www.esf.edu.hk/.

Smaller schools also exist, including the Christian Norwegian International School (http://nis.edu.hk) in Taipo, home to about 70 pupils.

An A–Z listing of international schools can be found in the Guide to International Schools in Hong Kong by Yoko Yamato and Sally Course, which can be ordered online from www.paddyfield.com.hk.

International schools are generally well run, properly accredited, staffed by excellent teachers and furnished with exceptional facilities. As well as considering reputation, fees and location when choosing a school, it is worth thinking ahead to where your child will be going after they leave Hong Kong and choosing a school that will prepare them for that step.

Entry criteria

Each international school has its own entry requirements, which usually include an interview and/or consideration of past school records, and a test. Language proficiency is also an important factor for schools (such as the Chinese International School) that have a strong emphasis on Chinese. The ESF schools demand a certain level of English before they will accept students, as priority is given to expatriate children with foreign passports. In practice, however, more and more local children have joined ESF schools to opt out of the local education system, which is seen as over-competitive and high-pressured. The ESF also uses a zoning system for allocating students to schools based on a student’s residential location.

It is advisable to book your child a place at your selected school ahead of your arrival in Hong Kong. Individual schools can advise about waiting lists and application deadlines.

Fees

The ESF currently charges $51,500 (primary) and $82,600 (secondary) per annum. There are no bursaries, but short-term financial assistance is offered to parents who experience ‘sudden and unexpected changes’ after their children join the school. This compares favourably with schools such as the Hong Kong International School, which charges $125,200–145,100 plus an application fee and debenture – individually, $12,000 per annum. Debentures are (refundable) one-off payments or (usually non-refundable) annual payments that schools use to finance their development. Individual or corporate debentures are sometimes required.

Other schools

Increasingly, the government is looking at ways to provide a useful alternative to the traditional state school system that divides students and schools into three bands according to academic merit at the tender age of 11. By introducing the Private Independent Scheme (PIS) and Direct Subsidy Scheme (DSS) for local schools, it is thought that parents and students will be offered more choice and schools will have more freedom to decide what to specialize in (including an emphasis on English language in the curriculum), fees and student intake. Expats hoping to give their children a taste of life in a local Chinese school will be disappointed unless children can demonstrate proficiency in Cantonese.

For students who can speak Cantonese, the options are greater. Local DSS schools with excellent academic reputations, such as St Paul’s Co-Educational College, currently charge around $48,000 per year – considerably less than international schools. They also offer bursaries and financial aid. They follow the Hong Kong schools curriculum and students study for the Hong Kong Certificate of Education Examination (HKCEE) and the Hong Kong Advanced Level Examination (HKALE).

The Sir Ellis Kadoorie Primary School is a government primary school that caters specifically to Hong Kong’s Indian community. English is the medium of instruction, with Hindi or Urdu as a second language.

Schools for children with special needs

The Jockey Club Sarah Roe School, an ESF school, provides for the special educational needs of up to 60 students aged 5–19 who have severe learning difficulties. Smaller schemes include The Rainbow Project (tel. 2179 5222), which runs a class to provide a bridge for children with autistic-related problems between kindergarten and primary, and the Springboard Project (tel. 2813 4508), which organizes classes for children aged 5–18 with mild to moderate learning difficulties.

The Children’s Institute of Hong Kong (www.tcihk.org; tel. 2812 2144) was set up in 2003 to provide individualized learning opportunities for children with autism-related disorders who cannot benefit from education in a mainstream environment. It currently caters to English-speaking children aged 5–9. Mainstream international schools that can cater to the special needs of students within the regular curriculum include the Australian International, Canadian International, Bradbury Junior, Korean International, South Island, Clearwater Bay and Beacon Hill schools.

InfoKids Academy of Excellence in Computer Education (www.infokids.com.hk; tel. 2504 2228) offers IT and multimedia literacy programmes based on Stanford University’s Education Programmes for Gifted Youth.

LEISURE ACTIVITIES AND EXTRA-CURRICULAR CLASSES FOR CHILDREN

The most common providers of children’s leisure activities are club houses in residential complexes and international schools, both of which regularly invite private companies in to offer classes such as aerobics, ballet, music, chess, foreign languages, computers and martial arts.

Those who are fortunate enough to belong to private clubs such as the Aberdeen Marina Club or the American Club – membership is often a perk included in overseas contracts – can make use of extensive children’s facilities including playrooms, bowling alleys, an ice rink, play stations and video game rooms, a soft foam ball shooting gallery and a whole range of organized activities. The contact details of the clubs are in Chapter Nineteen, ‘Sports’.

But even if you aren’t a member of a private club, there are plenty of things for your kids to get involved in. The South Side of Hong Kong Island, for example, has excellent water sports facilities. Other outdoor activities such as horse riding, golf, rugby and sailing are a few of the many sports open to children on a pay-as-you-go basis. A useful resource in this respect is Hong Kong with Kids (www.hkwithkids.com), a website that has a comprehensive list of activities and classes for kids and plenty of useful information for parents. Local publications such as Parents Journal and Qtimes will also have details of things to do.

Toys, games and children’s products

Details of where to find toys, games, children’s clothes, books and other products are provided in Chapter Seven, ‘Shopping’.

Sports

ESF Educational Services (www.esf.org.hk), a member of the ESF, offers sports coaching through ESF schools and organizes inter-school leagues. Play Sport Coaching (www.playsport.com.hk; tel. 2818 9453) offers group and private lessons in golf, gymnastics, skating, football, tennis and other sports for kids at six venues around Hong Kong. Multi-Sport (www.multi-sport.com.hk; tel. 2540 1257), founded in 1983, provides classes in basketball, action cricket, trampolining, aquarobics as well as other sports for children and adults.

The best source of information on public sports facilities is the Leisure and Cultural Services Department (LCSD; www.lcsd.gov.hk). It lists facilities by sports type and location, including public swimming pools, and hosts web-links to the sites. It is possible to book playrooms, squash, badminton courts and other sports spaces through ESDlife (www.esdlife.com), the LCSD’s online information and booking system. Public riding schools are located at Lei Yue Mun, Pokfulam and Tuen Mun (www.hongkongjockeyclub.com/english/school/riding_index.htm).

The YMCA (www.ymcahk.org.hk; tel. 2268 7756) in TST provides many sports classes for youngsters. Warehouse Teenage Club in Aberdeen (www.warehouse.org.hk; tel. 2873 2244) runs skateboarding, handball and other sports courses and activities (in English and Chinese). Other options include:

  • skateboarding (www.xskate.com.hk); and
  • paintballing – Paintball Headquarters has 10,000 square feet and costs $250, including equipment rental and 100 rounds of paintball (11 Wang Chi Road, Kowloon Bay; www.paintballhq.com.hk; tel. 3106 02200).

Kwok’s Kung Fu & Dragon Lion Dance (www.kwokslion.com.hk; tel. 9644 1999) offers kids the chance to learn kung fu, flag dance, drum array and the eponymous dragon and lion dances.

Details of other sports activities are provided in Chapter Nineteen, ‘Sports’.

Arts

Art and craft

There are many private schools offering creative and performing arts classes for children. Kids Gallery is popular with kids and parents, and offers classes in visual, performing, digital and creative arts for children aged 3–12. They run four schools including those at 21/F, Coda Plaza, 51 Garden Road, Central (tel. 2501 4842) and 28 Cumberland Road, Kowloon Tong (tel. 2337 1001). Visit their website at www.kidsgallery.com to find details of courses, links to websites for kids to explore and a kids’ posting section.

An exciting range of arts and crafts is also offered by Colour My World (Room 108, Aberdeen Marina Tower, 8 Shum Wan Road, Aberdeen; www.colour-my-world.com; tel. 2580 5028). Activities include drama and music, sculpture, clay, mixed media, and photography. They also offer drop-in workshops for children and classes for adults.

Arts Plus (G/F, 11 Tin Hau Temple Road; tel. 2807 0208) has a few art classes in English, and can also provide tailor-made courses for children. The Pottery Workshop (2 Lower Albert Road, Central; www.ceramics.com.hk; tel. 2525 7949) offers clay-making classes for 6–12 year olds.

In August, the Leisure and Cultural Services Department sponsors an International Arts Carnival for children and families, with a host of programmes including music, dance, drama, puppetry, acrobatics, film and theatrical arts, workshops and exhibitions.

Dance

Recommended dance classes for kids and teens include the Southern School of Dance (at venues in Happy Valley and Pokfulam; tel. 2872 6917) and the DMR School of Ballet (tel. 2987 4338) in Discovery Bay, both of which run ballet, tap and jazz dance classes. Recommended teachers include:

  • Glenda Allen, who teaches ballet, jazz and tap (tel. 2987 7370);
  • Lynne Evans, who teaches tap (tel. 2964 0304); and
  • Jamie Chung, who teaches jazz and tap (tel. 9059 0709).

Well-established schools include the Jean M. Wong School of Ballet (www.jmwballet.org) and the Carol Bateman School of Dancing (www.cbsdhk.com).

Drama

Drama classes are often offered through school, but older children can also get involved with productions mounted by the Hong Kong Youth Arts Festival (www.hkyaf.com) and the Faust International Youth Theatre (FIYT; www.faustworld.com). The latter also offers classes in improvisation, live performance, make-up, masks, mime, movement, musical theatre, pantomime, puppetry, script-work, set design, stage-fighting and story-telling, and also has a choir. Faust Educational Services offers exams, tuition and creative writing workshops. The Kely Support Group (www.kely.org) runs a summer circus school which is very popular.

Music

Besides participating in school orchestras, young classical musicians can audition for the Asian Youth Orchestra (www.asianyouthorchestra.com), a six-week summer camp where young musicians get to rehearse together and then perform on tour for three weeks with international solo artists and conductors. The well-regarded Junior Music Programme at the Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts (www.hkapa.edu) enrolls international and local students, and has orchestra rehearsals on Saturday mornings.

Music classes are advertised at music shops throughout the city, the largest being Tom Lee (Yamaha Music Programs; www.tomleemusic.com), or try finding a teacher through www.hongkongstring.com, which is run by a classical musician.

PLACES TO TAKE KIDS

A nice website for families to browse is www.hkwithkids.com. It provides information about Hong Kong and suggests all sorts of activities to choose from. Another useful publication is Fun Excursions in Hong Kong by Sabina Wong. Below I have highlighted some of the popular places to visit and things to do for kids, but the list is nowhere near exhaustive. More information on places of interest is included in Part Three, ‘Leisure in Hong Kong’.

Museums

Hong Kong Science Museum

  • 2 Science Museum Road, TST East; www.lcsd.gov.hk/ce/museum/science/index.htm; tel. 2732 3232.
  • Open 1:00–9:00 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10:00 am–9:00 pm. Closed Thursdays (except public holidays).
  • Free admission Wednesdays.
  • Screens nature films occasionally.

Hong Kong Space Museum

Hong Kong Heritage Museum

  • 1 Man Lam Rd, Shatin, New Territories; www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk/; tel. 2180 8188.
  • Open 10:00 am–6:00 pm. Closed Tuesdays (except public holidays).
  • Free admission Wednesdays.
  • This vast museum includes models and interactive exhibits on the arts, culture and history of Hong Kong.

Hong Kong History Museum

  • 100 Chatham Road South, TST; http://hk.history.museum; tel. 2724 9042.
  • Open 10:00 am–6:00 pm, or until 7:00 on Sundays and public holidays. Closed Tuesdays (except public holidays).
  • Free admission Wednesdays.
  • Popular exhibitions include The Hong Kong Story. Best for children 6+.

Hong Kong Police Museum

  • 27 Coombe Rd, The Peak; www.info.gov.hk/police/english/museum/2-6-1. htm; tel. 2849 7019.
  • Open Wednesday–Sunday 9:00 am–5:00 pm and Tuesday 2:00–5:00 pm. Closed Mondays and public holidays.
  • Galleries include Narcotics and Triad Societies.

Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence

  • 175 Tung Hei Rd, Shaukeiwan; www.lcsd.gov.hk/ce/museum/science/index.htm; tel. 2569 1500.
  • Open 10:00 am–5:00 pm. Closed Thursdays.
  • Free admission Wednesdays.
  • This museum is beautifully landscaped and partly open-air. Exhibits include wartime video footage and children’s corner programmes, which include tank and model-making workshops. An English translation service is provided – call 2569 1248.

Hong Kong Railway Museum

  • 13 Shung Tak Street, Tai Po Market; www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk/english/branch.htm; tel. 2653 3455.
  • Open Monday and Wednesday–Sunday (including public holidays) 9:00 am–5:00 pm.
  • Free admission.
  • This small, open-air museum is located in the old Tai Po Market railway station, which dates from 1913. The exhibition includes a full-size model of an electric train compartment, as well as old coaches and photographs from the city’s rail history.

Entertainment

Hong Kong Disneyland (hongkongdisneyland.com) opened in 2005 and, though considerably smaller than its US and European counterparts, has attracted hordes of fans. Accessible from downtown by bus, MTR and, soon, ferry, day tickets cost $170–350 depending on the day and the age of the Disney fan.

At Cityplaza Ice Palace (www.icepalace.com.hk) or Festival Walk Glacier (www.glacier.com.hk), you can go ice-skating or book a coach from the skating school. McDonald’s, Pizza Hut and food courts are conveniently located nearby.

UA Cinemas are generally plusher than others in Hong Kong and are located at Pacific Place, Times Square, Festival Walk, Taikoo Shing, Shatin, Telford and Whampoa (the cheapest venue). Tuesday tickets are discounted. Showing times are advertised daily in the South China Morning Post or on the City line website (www.cityline.com.hk). This website also serves as a billboard for many cultural and artistic shows and events.

For more information on cinemas, refer to Chapter Eighteen, ‘The Local Arts Scene’.

Hiking

Although Hong Kong is not famed for its natural environment, the territory has 23 beautiful Country Parks, most of which are open to the public.

There are more than a hundred hiking trails. Some, such as the Maclehose, Pak Sin Leng and Violet Hill, are quite strenuous; others, such as Black’s Link (at the top of Wanchai Gap) and the Peak Trail on Harlech Road, are much less so. Details of popular trails can be found in the following places:

Beaches

Hong Kong’s 41 public beaches are officially open between April and October, when they are manned by lifeguards – although a few remain open throughout the year. Beaches at risk of shark attacks – although the risk is minimal – are fitted with shark nets.

Giving more reason for concern is the cleanliness of the water. Water-testing is carried out weekly and the e-coli levels are published in the South China Morning Post and on the government’s website (www.epd.gov.hk). Beaches consistently rated ‘good’ for their water quality include:

  • Clearwater Bay Beach (both Number 1 and Number 2 beaches);
  • Discovery Bay;
  • Cheung Sha Upper and Lower Beaches (Lantau);
  • St Stephen’s; and
  • Stanley Beach.

For lists of beaches and more information, visit www.hkwithkids.com. The LCSD’s website has a map locating the beaches and water safety advice (www.lcsd.gov.hk/swimhandbook/en/pbb.html).

A popular outing for children and adults is to North Lantau to see the famous wild pink dolphins (Sousa chinensis). There are several tour operators organizing half-day trips – not all of them environmentally friendly – but one that I have been on and found excellent was Hong Kong Dolphinwatch (www.hkdolphinwatch.com; tel. 2984 1414). Prices are $360 for adults and $180 for children; there are discounts for seniors and students while under-threes travel free. The YMCA (1 Salisbury Road, Tsimshatsui; www.ymcahk.org.hk;; tel. 2369 2211) occasionally runs special events, such as Squid Catching Nights.

Parks

Two animal and bird parks nestle between a forest of skyscrapers in Mid-Levels – HK Zoological & Botanical Gardens (Albany Road) and Hong Kong Park (19 Cotton Tree Drive). The former has some sad but interesting enclosures housing orang-utans, gibbons, a jaguar and flamingos, amongst other mammals and birds. Ten minutes’ walk away, Hong Kong Park has a wonderful walk-through canopy aviary, beautiful fishponds and a children’s playground. It also has a nice open-air restaurant. Avoid weekends and public holidays, when the park gets crowded.

Other large parks include Victoria Park in Causeway Bay and Kowloon Park in TST, both of which have public pools. Another green and pleasant place – usually very quiet, but somewhat out of the way – is Victory Peak Garden atop the Peak. It’s the perfect hideaway for mother and baby.

Amusement parks

Victoria Peak

Visiting the Peak is a must with visitors and residents alike, not only for the gravity-defying journey up on the historic peak tram but also for the magnificent views of Hong Kong from the top. Entertainments for kids include:

  • EA Experience – a virtual world where gamers can try their hand at Harry Potter, warfare, sports and much more; and
  • Madame Tussauds – $115 for adults, $65 for children and senior citizens (www.madame-tussauds.com.hk).

All of the above attractions are open between 10:00 am and 10:00 pm. There are plenty of reasonably priced places to snack, including Pacific Coffee, DeliFrance, Häagen-Dazs and Moven pick Marche. There is also a children’s playground in Mount Austin Road. For more information, visit www.thepeak.com.hk.

Ocean Park

Ocean Park, just the other side of the Aberdeen Tunnel (www.oceanpark.com.hk; tel. 25502 0291), is popular with children of all ages. In the lower sections of the park you can find the panda enclosure, Butterfly House and Kids’ World, housing fun rides and conservation exhibits. The upper reaches of the park are accessed by cable car and are home to a host of adult rollercoaster rides, Ocean Theatre – which has performing dolphins and sealions – and a spectacular viewing tower. Other attractions include the Middle Kingdom, which has traditional Chinese buildings and characters in traditional dress, a Bird Paradise canopy enclosure and a Bird Theatre of performing birds. The park is open between 10:00 am and 6:00 pm daily and admission, which includes access to all the rides and shows, costs $185 for adults and $93 for children. For more than two trips a year, it’s worth buying an annual pass.

Themed shopping malls

Teddy Bear Kingdom in The Amazon, the underground mall between the Space Museum and the Regent Hotel in TST, boasts a teddy bear museum home to more than 400 teddies and a teddy bear picnic area. There are also plenty of children’s shops to browse. Admission is $50 for adults and $25 for children and senior citizens. Snoopy’s World in Shatin New Town Plaza, near Shatin KCR station, has an outdoor Peanuts playground, children’s ride and eating area.

Party ideas

The UA Cityplaza cinema operates a Director’s Club: two private auditoriums with 16 luxury seats each. If you book the whole auditorium, you get to choose the film. Soft drinks, hot dogs and popcorn are included. Individual tickets are $175; booking the whole auditorium costs $2,800. Call 2567 3111 for more information.

For younger kids, pizza and McDonald’s still come out tops for food. Pizza Hut offers a ‘Birthday Party’ deal for ten kids or more at $39 per child. This includes invitations, party games, food and gifts, and the chance for the birthday boy or girl to make their own pizza (www.pizzahut.com.hk/kids_corner. html). Pepperoni’s does children’s parties and pizza-making parties at most branches.Pizza Express (www.pizzaexpress.com.hk; tel. 2850 7898) runs pizza-making parties for children at its Soho restaurant between 3:00 and 5:30 pm at $125 per child. They also can offer special prices for party catering and organize entertainment such as clowns, face-painting and magicians on request.

Trendy Toon Town (Shop B101, Basement 1, 1 Peking Rd, TST; tel. 2739 1318), a Disney-themed venue, offers party favours, invites, decorations, free popcorn or candyfloss, and a choice of two menus for children’s birthday parties. It is available on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays for two-and-a-half hours, and costs $138–150 per adult, $108–110 per child, plus a service charge. McDonald’s (www.mcdonalds.com.hk) provides a decorated venue, invitations, gifts, games and food coupons for a surcharge of $12 per child based on a minimum of ten children at the party.

There is a good selection of entertainment available if you are prepared to pay for it:

  • No Name Family Circus has a good reputation (tel. 2982 0862);
  • Drum Jam (www.drumjam.com.hk; tel. 2982 1846) will organize a drum jam session for children;
  • Z Performance (http://members.hknet.com/∼zani; tel. 2982 4014) provides make-up, magic and jugglers for children’s parties; and
  • Abbot Leisure (www.abbottleisure.com; tel. 2540 3982) offers a mixed programme of traditional entertainment such as clowning, magic, music or puppetry, face painting, kiddies disco and bubble machine.

Other vote-winners include the YMCA indoor climbing wall party (tel. 2268 7055), which costs $960 for up to 20 participants; a crazy golf party; a football party, organized by Play Sport; and a bowling party.

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