The extravagant, decadent expatriate lifestyles in Hong Kong – which caused rumour to run riot and created the mystique and glamour surrounding one of the last remaining jewels in the British crown in the late 1980s and early 1990s – have waned substantially. There used to be a skilled expatriate milliner who ran a very profitable business making stunning one-off ladies’ hats purely for social events and parties. Then there was a wonderful bar called The Yellow Frog, which was owned by a Frenchman who drove around in a yellow Rolls-Royce. Neither has survived.

The high rollers (most of whom are wealthy Chinese these days) will undoubtedly always remain, but the pre-1997 excesses are much less evident now. ‘Get real’ is not a phrase that entered the lexicon of Hong Kong English, but it may be finally coming into fashion. The fall-out from the Asian financial crisis in the late 1990s, massive property depreciation, flagging share markets, deflation, bankruptcies and then SARS in 2003 left pundits wondering if Hong Kong was heading for mediocrity. The past three years have demonstrated the city is not yet ready to surrender its position as the pre-eminent place to do business in Asia.

CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES FOR HONG KONG

China’s entry into the World Trade Organization (WTO) has demanded some serious thinking on how Hong Kong can maintain its successful role in the region as a free trade entrepôt and create value-added services in its traditional strongholds of logistics and finance. Given that a) direct trade is increasingly permitted between Taiwan and China, reducing the through-flow of business in Hong Kong, and b) Shanghai wants to take over as China’s shipping, trade and financial centre, Hong Kong needs to redefine its relationship with China and establish its usefulness and competitiveness in the region. The greatest fear is that Hong Kong will become ‘just another Chinese city’.

Hong Kong is praised for its economic freedoms, entrepreneurship, openness, financial solvency, rule of law and anti-corruption regime, and it is still the safest place in China to keep your money. However, many Hong Kong companies – as is the case with companies worldwide seeking a cheap labour market – have already moved their manufacturing and assembling plants to the mainland, and are increasingly shifting back office operations there to take advantage of a well-educated workforce. It’s a challenging time for Hong Kong, but it is a time of opportunity, too, as the government looks to private enterprise and entrepreneurship to take the initiative.

EXPATRIATE LIFESTYLES

Foreign talent and expertise are still in demand by Western companies with regional offices in Hong Kong, even as more mainland Chinese professionals are being lured to the territory with lucrative jobs. The salary, accommodation and perks will obviously vary according to individual companies, the most favourable terms being negotiated in home countries rather than in Hong Kong itself.

Middle managers, or foreigners employed locally, are increasingly being offered ‘local’ contracts that may, however, still include relocation allowances, flights and other benefits not offered to Cantonese staff. Obviously income determines the kind of lifestyle you can enjoy in Hong Kong to a large extent. Factors that make it easier for people to increase their net worth include:

• the low income tax – 16% for 2006–2007;
• high salaries, especially when compared to how similar jobs are paid in Europe, Australia and New Zealand; and
• a buoyant job market for those fluent in English and Cantonese or Putonghua.

Hong Kong continues to be an alluring Asian location for expats and most are upbeat about their experience of living and working here. People like the city’s vibrant cultural mix, excellent food, outstanding natural and constructed beauty, the international lifestyle, and the many opportunities on offer to broaden your horizons – professionally, culturally and socially – in a climate of personal safety. Asians and Westerners alike appreciate the easy access to a global marketplace and the ease of sustaining a Western or Asian lifestyle:

• supermarkets stocking most Western and Asian foods;
• clubs and support groups for expat spouses;
• international schools;
• excellent restaurants and atmospheric bars; and
• a wide variety of entertainment and leisure options, catering to all tastes.

The international part of Hong Kong is very small: Tsim Sha Tsui (TST), Central, Mid-Levels, Soho and Wanchai contain the main shops, cinemas, dining venues and bars patronized by expatriates. This means that it is not unusual to run into friends whilst out shopping or eating. In this respect, it retains a community feel, despite having many of the trappings of a much larger city.

PICK A LIFESTYLE

Hong Kong’s foreign community is large enough to support numerous circles, largely determined by work type and income. Although it is an expensive place to live, there is a certain amount of flexibility that enables you to save money – this is important if you are on a local contract and not enjoying a generous company package.

Choosing where to live

The main expenditure is housing and there is a vast range of housing types to accommodate different budgets. One of the best things about Hong Kong is that you have quite a lot of choice over the sort of lifestyle you want to create for yourself. If you enjoy hanging out with friends after work and frequently have to grab a cab to the office in the morning, there is plenty of studio-type accommodation downtown –Mid-Levels or Happy Valley are preferred spots.

If you’re into the club scene, the Soho area combines bars, restaurants, gay and straight clubs, and fitness centres. If you want a more laid-back lifestyle, you can live on one of Hong Kong’s several inhabited islands in a village house with a garden, where you can keep dogs and let your children play in the street – no cars are allowed on most islands. You can grow your own organic vegetables and watch the sun go down from your roof while you drink a glass of white wine after taking a dip in the sea at your local beach. Walk around in a sarong and sandals and nobody will give you a second glance.

There are also in-between arrangements: bachelor flats conveniently located for commuting, but also close to the sea for those stunning night skylines, or in the heart of neighbourhoods that have a traditional Chinese feel. There are many apartment complexes in different price ranges that cater to families with young children and are conveniently close to shopping and restaurant complexes, fitness facilities and activity centres for kids. Examples include lower-end South Horizons in Ap Lei Chau and high-end Repulse Bay. Meanwhile, the strong-hearted and linguistically gifted can go completely native and strike out for urban Mongkok or rural Tai Wai.

If you want to stick together with your clan, certain neighbourhoods provide shelter to a large proportion of expat nationals from the same country. For example, Americans are found in Repulse Bay and Tai Tam, British in Pokfulam, Japanese and Koreans in Taikoo Shing, while a large mainland Chinese community is in North Point.

More information on residential locations is given in Chapter Five, ‘Accommodation’.

UNEMPLOYED OR ‘TRAILING’ SPOUSES OR PARTNERS

Hong Kong is often touted as a mecca for rich, idle expat women who accompany their husbands or partners on a megabucks package. Whilst their husbands are out slaving away to bring home the bacon, the wives employ a small army of domestic workers to clean the flat, walk the poodle, mind the kids, cook the dinner and generally relieve them of every sort of chore.

What do these women do all day? Get bored, is probably the answer. I don’t know; I haven’t met any women in Hong Kong who fall into that category. But I do know women such as my Aunty Jeanette, who lives in a luxurious apartment, does not work and has to occupy herself for most of the week whilst my uncle is working or out of town. My two cousins are grown up and live in Australia. The decision to come to Hong Kong was, for her, not a straightforward one:

Hong Kong is much better than I’d expected. I was brought out here kicking and screaming, because I didn’t know how I would be able to make friends if I didn’t have the kids around me. In the past, that’s always how I’d made friends, by meeting other mums. But when I arrived in Hong Kong I found there’s such a wealth of organizations designed to pick you up and help send you on your way, that it isn’t a problem.

Getting involved in expat groups

Jeanette found that the American Women’s Association (AWA) was the best at making new arrivals feel welcome. Other groups she joined included the YWCA English Speaking Members Department and Friends of the Art Museum, which organizes classes in Chinese history and arts and trips in Asia. Details of these clubs are given in Chapter Twenty, ‘Interest Groups’.

Jeanette also joined a Ladies Investment Club, a group of about 12 women of all nationalities who get together once a fortnight to pool money, research stocks and try to make a profit. That’s the international part Jeanette enjoys about Hong Kong.

She does know some expat women who are unhappy. One Australian woman in her apartment block is depressed and hates living here. Jeanette’s explanation is:

She makes no effort. I mean, 9:30 is too early for her to be doing aqua-aerobics downstairs in the pool. But I think it’s mainly a question of focus. Her kids are at school in Australia so her focus is in Australia. She comes to Hong Kong for two months at a time, then goes back home. What really helped me to get to know the community is doing volunteer work. Doing one afternoon a week English conversation, or helping with riding for the disabled – my next plan. Otherwise your experience is too transient. Then you don’t belong in Hong Kong. If you don’t make the effort then it’s just a busy town.

An alternative to working

But what about men and women who accompany their partners to Hong Kong and have always worked but suddenly can’t? Either the right openings are not available to them or their visa does not permit them to work. However, as of 15 May 2006, dependents of people admitted for employment or capital investment may take up employment.

According to Rehana Sheikh, a bright-eyed, chatty, motherly figure who advises clients on relocating to Hong Kong, groups like the AWA’s CHAT (Come Have A Talk) are vital. Newcomers can orient themselves, network and seek advice.

Unless they’re the much older age group, most women have skills: either they’re lawyers, accountants, in communications or teaching or nursing, or whatever – they’ve all got skills. They bring all their skills to this organization, and through it, people can network and find things to do.

Yes, it is possible to be here with a partner or a spouse and not work. It’s very interesting. I’ve met some (married) women who’ve come here, got jobs, didn’t like the jobs, didn’t like the work environment, somehow couldn’t relate to the work ethics, stopped working, and they say, ‘OK, it’s only two years, I’m going to travel, do volunteer work, there’s no pressure.’ You’re enjoying it, you’re with friends, you make a difference in the community, you’re contributing, you’re still being very productive. Instead of feeling sorry for yourself and saying, ‘Gosh, I don’t like this job’, or ‘I’m not used to sitting at home doing nothing, I’ve always earned my own living’, they’re sort of redefining themselves – or maybe having to do it. Some deliberately, some being pushed into it, and some just reluctantly taking it on and then just loving it after that – and I see that a lot. They find they feel a sense of growth, a sense of awareness, learn about another culture, another region. This is very valuable.

More information on volunteer organizations can be found in Chapter Seventeen, ‘Volunteering’.

A new career?

Other options include starting your own business (see Chapter Thirteen, ‘Work’) or taking time out to re-evaluate your career, which is what Fiona O’Donovan did. Back in the UK, she was the marketing director for a software company, but she left her job to accompany her husband to Hong Kong. She started looking for work seriously in autumn 2003 when the law did not permit spouses to work on their spouse visa. She was offered a few opportunities in the marketing field but nothing special. Recruitment agencies were unhelpful: she mentions the language barrier, being branded an expat wife – ‘they think you’re inflexible because you’re dependent on your husband’ – and the instigation of Putonghua and Cantonese proficiency requirements by HR departments:

I didn’t try as hard as I could have. I’d lost my hunger – it was more of a job for me to find out exactly what I wanted to do.

She realized that she’d always been interested in the fitness industry and decided to take courses in Pilates instruction and sports nutrition. She joined Isofit and is finding her courses very rewarding. Friends and mentors in the industry have been very encouraging:

I was told before I came that Hong Kong is a great place to reinvent yourself. There are quite a few courses available and the qualifications I’m taking are internationally recognized, so they can travel with me.

More information on retraining is provided in Chapter Sixteen, ‘Professional Development’.