DRIVING

Without a doubt the Place de l’Etoile with its centrepiece, the Arc de Triomphe, is the most notorious symbol of one of the world’s best-known bad habits, Parisian driving. Even with a four-fold transport service, bad-tempered, bad-mannered Parisians are still addicted to driving to work every day, if only so that they can complain about pollution and traffic jams before, during and after their journeys, especially during transport strikes. Given the congestion in Paris and the difficulty of finding parking space, you would be well advised to stick to using public transport in Paris.

Parking in Paris is spécial in the French sense of the word. Many people would say that the best advice would be bring along a can-opener to manoeuvre yourself in and out of the available slots, or to escape from the mess somebody else has made of your neat parking. A résidents’ parking permit (vignette de stationnement residentiel) can be obtained from your local town hall, which gives you the right to preferential parking rates and access. If you receive a parking fine, you need to buy the appropriate fiscal stamp (timbre fiscal) at a tobacconists, affix the stamp and send the payment. Failure to do so in the specified time limit will lead to an increased fine. If your car is towed away, you will need to make enquiries at the nearest commissariat to find out to which car pound (fourrière) it has been taken.

Driving papers

All drivers must always carry their driving licence with when driving, as well as the original registration document, and the car insurance documents. You must be at least 18 years old to drive in France. The annual car tax (vignette) has been abolished for individuals, but still applies to company cars.

British drivers in France

American drivers in France

US visitors who stay in France less than 90 days can drive in France with a valid US licence although it is advisable to carry a translation of their licence. French residents (who have either a carte de séjour or carte de résident) can drive in France for up to one year from the start date of their residence permit. In this case either a ‘sworn’ translation or an international driver’s licence is also obligatory. American students may drive with an American licence throughout the duration of their studies.

Thirteen American states have official agreements with France which allow holders of state licences to exchange their licences for French licences. These states are: Colorado, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Illinois, Kansas, Kentucky, Michigan, Ohio, New Hampshire, Pennsylvania, South Carolina and Virginia. This agreement allows you up to one year to exchange your American licence for a French permis de conduire, after which time the exchange is no longer possible. In practice, you should allow up to three months for the successful exchange of licences. The whole process takes place at the Préfecture de Police on Îie de la Cite (M° Cité) and needs to be completed before the end of the first year of residence.

To exchange your licence you need to obtain and complete the necessary form from the préfecture; to provide your US driver’s licence with a notarised translation into French; a proof of your current address (rental agreement or EDF or France Telecom bill); a photocopy of both sides of your carte de séjour; and two passport-size photographs. As with any French administrative application, make sure you have originals and copies available of all of these documents.

If you hold a US licence from another state, you must take the two-part French driving test (part-written, part practical) after lessons from a recognised French driving school which will allow you to fulfil the obligation to take the test in a dual-control car. Some concessions are made for the fact that your knowledge of French may be limited when you take the practical test, and a translator may be allowed to accompany you.

Replacing a lost licence

If you lose your licence or it is stolen, you must report it at the police station nearest to where the incident happened. They will give you a receipt valid for two months, which acts as a temporary licence. During that period go to your local préfecture and request a new licence. Take with you:

• the receipt of your declaration of loss or theft
• a piece of official identity
• the completed form requesting a duplicate licence
• a proof of residency (eg, tenancy agreement, electricity bill, etc)
• three passport-size photos

It can take three to six weeks to obtain your new licence. You will also have to pay the appropriate fee.

Lost or stolen US driving licences can only be replaced by the Department of Motor Vehicles in the driver’s home state.

IMPORTING A CAR

You can import a car for up to six months in one year without completing customs formalities. A new or used car on which VAT (TVA in France) has already been paid in another EU country can be imported in to France by a French resident free of French VAT.

Otherwise, VAT is payable immediately upon entry into France. You can pay at the point of importation or at your local tax office. You will then be issued with a customs certificate (Certificat de Douane 846A) permitting you to register the vehicle in France. The same form will also be required even if VAT has already been paid, to prove that this obligation has been met.

Tourists (anyone staying no more than 90 days) can bring a car or motorbike into France duty-free and retain their foreign number plates but must display a USA driving disk beside the licence plates. Cars brought in for more than three months need French licence plates, which requires registering the car.

US temporary residents who hold a carte de séjour temporaire are exempted from customs duties if they can show:

• (a)that they will stay in France less than one year
• (b)they have a permanent residence outside France
• (c)that they have lived outside of France for at least one year
• (d)that they have owned the vehicle for at least six months.

Long-term residents are not entitled to exemption from customs duties on imported vehicles, and the car must carry French licence plates and be registered in France, as well as ensuring the full payment of all duties on the vehicle in the country of export.

REGISTERING A CAR IN FRANCE

Registering an imported car

Imported vehicles must be registered in France within three months of entry. To do this, you must contact the local Direction Régionaie de I’Industrie, de la Recherche et de l’Environnement (DRIRE). After the local vehicle inspection centre (Inspection des Mines) has checked that your car meets French construction and use regulations, you will receive a certificate from DRIRE which will allow you to apply for the registration certificate (Certificat d’lmmatriculation – more normally known as a carte grise). This happens at the prefecture, or the Prefecture de Police, or local mairie in Paris. They will provide a checklist of documents required, which are:

• 1.Proof of origin of the vehicle or copy of the certificate of sale.
• 2.The foreign registration document
• 3.The customs certificate 846A (see above)
• 4.A manufacturer’s certificate of construction. This is available from a local car dealer, the French importer, or the manufacturer. Officially it is no longer required, but it may be asked for. It can also be very expensive. The point of the document is to prove that the vehicle meets European safety standards
• 5.A completed request for a registration card form (Demande de Certificat d’Immatriculation d’un Véhi-cule), available from the prefecture, or the Préfecture de Police, or the local mairie in Paris. This document should be accompanied by your carte de séjour or passport and proof of residence
• 6.A technical test certificate if your vehicle is more than four years old. All vintage vehicles and those over four years old are subject to regular testing every two years

Once you finally receive your car registration, new number plates must be installed within 48 hours. They can be made up and fitted at local garages for a small fee. The last two numbers of your new registration will refer always to the département in which the car is registered.

Registering a new car

You have 15 days in which to register a newly purchased car. You will need a new form to apply for a new carte grise, the certificate of sale, the technical certificate from the Inspections des Mines, a piece of official identity (eg, carte de séjour), and a proof of residency less than three months old (eg, electricity or telhone bill in your name).

Registering a second-hand car

Once again, you have 15 days in which to register. Vehicles less than 10 years old cost the same to register as new vehicles; those which are more than 10 years old cost half as much to register. You will need ID and proof of residence (as above), and the carte grise barrée (old registration document of the car) supplied by the former owner. Cars more than four years old must also have the necessary technical certificate dating from less than six months before the purchase. You also need a certificate de situation administrative supplied by the seller.

Moving home

Even if you stay in the same département, you must change the address on your carte grise. This is free, and can be done immediately at the local mairie or prefecture, by presenting a new proof of residence and your carte grise. If you fail to do this, you could face a fine.

Replacing your carte grise

If you lose your carte or it is stolen, you must report it to the police. You will be issued with a temporary document which will allow you to use your car. It will also allow you to apply for a new carte. You will need an official piece of identity, a proof of residency, the receipt of your police statement of loss, the form requesting a duplicate carte, and the necessary technical certificate for vehicles more than four years old.

Selling your car

If you decide to sell your car once you have moved to France, you must supply the following documents to the buyers before the sale is complete and legal:

• 2.The ‘carte grise barrée’ (ie, ‘crossed-out’). You must write across the carte in indelible ink ‘vendue le____ ‘(sold on____) and fill in the date. You must then sign the amended carte
• 1.The certificat de vente. It is your responsibility to obtain this from the prefecture or sous-preèfecture
• 3.If the car is more than four years old, a technical certificate dated less than six months before the date of the sale proving that the car is roadworthy (see above)
• 4.A certificat de situation administrative. To obtain this, go to your local prefecture with your carte grise. You will need to submit the registration number of the vehicle, the model, and the power of the engine. The certificat will certify that there are no outstanding fines relating to the vehicle

Within 15 days of the sale of the car, you must hand in the second copy of the certificat de vente at the prefecture at which it was previously registered. Restrictions apply on the sale of cars imported duty-free which are regulated by the French Customs Office.

Insurance

Fully comprehensive insurance is advisable to cover the costs of breakdown or accidents. Third-party motor insurance for unlimited liability is compulsory in France. You will need to shop around to find the best policies and prices. Third-party insurance is required for the import of cars whether they are owned or not, and if you opt to take out a policy before arrival you must have proof ready for French Customs at the point of entry (land or sea). The Customs Offices themselves offer temporary insurance for up to 30 days at these same points of entry.

Fuel

Garages are placed at intervals of 24km along all motorways, and are to be found across the city centre. Many of the Parisian and suburban garages are self-service. Faites le plein, s’il vous plaît means ‘Fill her up, please’, if you do find yourself being served.

Leaded petrol is now sold only in one grade (essence super). Unleaded is sold in two grades: essence sans plomb, and super sans plomb. The minimum quantity that you can buy is five litres. Diesel (gazole) is cheaper and readily available. A favourite tactic in French disputes to pressurise the government is to block access to petrol refineries, and if possible, Paris itself. The result is always panic buying, and long queues at the pumps. If trouble seems to be looming, then plan ahead if possible.

Road rules

The most important thing you do need to remember is that in France you drive on the right! Also important is the fact that in built-up areas, you must give way to traffic coming from the right – the famous priorité aà droit rule. In less built-up areas, traffic on main roads has priority over traffic from side roads. The exception to the rule of priority is at roundabouts. Traffic entering the roundabout has priority. Except when signs such as Cédez le passage (give way) or Vous n’avez pas la priorité are displayed.

Health and safety precautions

• seat belts are obligatory in France, including in the rear of the car if they are installed. You can face an on-the-spot fine if you disobey this rule
• Random tests are made for drink-driving in France, which is a major killer on the roads. The legal limit is now 80mg alcohol per 100ml of blood – not much more than one glass of wine. You may face an on-the-spot fine, a court appearance, or a driving ban if you are found guilty
• Speed limits are reduced in bad weather. Generally on toll motorways (autoroutes à péage) the maximum speed is 130kph, and 110kph in bad weather. The minimum speed in the outside (overtaking) lane is 80kph during daylight on flat roads with good visibility. For dual carriageways and toll-free motorways, the limit is 110kph; for other ‘departmental’ roads the limit is 90kph; and for roads in built up areas the limit is 50kph. The limit on ring roads is 80kph
• The government has introduced an ever-increasing number of automatic and manual radar speed-traps. Tickets are issued automatically, on the basis of a 5% margin of error in the speed recorded. Fines should be paid promptly to avoid increases, and in addition French licence holders may find that they will lose several points from their licence. Repeat offenders could find themselves losing their French licence, at least for a limited period. Fines are also being issued now for offences such as using hand-held mobile phones whilst driving. Generally, there is now a very strong emphasis on applying road rules and regulations
• Cars made in the UK and Ireland must adjust their headlights in order not to dazzle on-coming traffic. Headlight converters made from pre-cut black masking tape must be fitted over the headlights. If another driver flashes his headlights at you it is to indicate that he has priority and that you should give way
• If you break down, try to move the car to the side of the road and flash your hazard warning lights. The red warning triangle should be placed 30m behind your car (100m on motorways). Emergency phones (postes d’appel d’urgence) are at 4km intervals on main roads, and every 2km on motorways
• If you have an accident, you should call the police immediately by dialling 17. The ambulance service will also be alerted if necessary. You and the other parties must complete and exchange an accident statement form (constat aà I’amiable) and exchange insurance details. If possible, persuade witnesses (temoins) to remain and make statements

Pollution controls

Pollution is a major problem in Paris. To combat this problem, regulations are enforced each year (or threatened), whereby you can only drive on alternate days. This depends on the last two numbers before the letters in a number plate. On one day, only even numbers (pairs) will be allowed to drive; the next day it will be the turn of the uneven numbers (impairs). Listen out for warnings on the TV and radio. Certain areas of Paris are now regularly reserved for pedestrians, cyclists and rollerbladers, and this is a growing tendency in Paris. See below for more details.

TWO-WHEELED TRANSPORT

Cyclists (and taxis) now share the bus lanes which run the length and breadth of the city with protective barriers to stop encroachments from cars, vans and lorries. Crosscountry biking is also a popular sport at weekends and on vacation. On Sundays, the quais of the Seine and the Canal St Martin are reserved for cyclists. The Bois de Boulogne and the Bois de Vincennes respectively to the west and the east of the city centre also provide plenty of good space for fans of open-air pedal-powered propulsion with regular weekend closings to four-wheel traffic.

If you have your own bike, you can take it on the RER lines A and B in the carriages marked with bike signs at weekends, and on weekdays from 09h00 16h30, and after 19h00 (ie, not in rush-hour). métro ligne 1 can also be used on Sundays up until 16h30, although Louvre-Rivoli and La Defense are not accessible. For more information call Maison Roue Libre on 01 53 46 43 77.

FINDING OUT MORE

• The French Travel Centre, 178 Piccadilly, London W1V OAL. Tel: 0891 244123, fax: (020) 7493 6594, www.franceguide.com and www.fr-holidaystore.co.uk . Open Monday-Friday 10h00-18h00, Saturday 10h00-17h00 and French Railways Ltd, The Rail Europe Travel Centre, 179 Piccadilly. Tube: Green Park or Piccadilly Circus. Take a look at the franceguide site for lots of handy hints on driving in France. There are also links for disabled travellers, and a broad general help section
• www.equipement.gouv.fr- the transport ministry website.
• www.voyages-sncf.com. The popular multilingual website for checking long-distance train times and ordering tickets. These can either be sent to your home or collected at the station.
• www.ratp.fr. The excellent multilingual website for the Paris transport authority, with suggestions for day-trips, amusing the children, etc, plus all the usual travel information you would expect.
• www.eurostar.com (within Europe) or www.eurostar-tickets.com (USA and Canada only). Both sites offer times and tickets, but the North American site offers discounted tickets for these travellers.
• www.eurotunnel.com. Bilingual site for the underground-overground option.
• English-speaking helpline for Motorail: in France, 0892 35 35 39, outside France + 33 892 35 35 39
• www.bison-fute.equipement.gouv.fr. The transport ministry’s excellent French-only site with travel updates, road works and closures, and school holidays dates (ie, when not to travel).
• www.eurolines.com and www.hoverspeed.com. Coach travel to France. The Hoverspeed site offers both ferry and coach information.
• www.brittany-ferries.co.uk and www.poferries.com. Cross-channel ferries to the UK and Ireland.
• www.airfrance.com; www.britishairways.com; www.flyb-mi.com (British Midland). For regular nights to Paris and major French cities.