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Spain Your Guide To A New Life

Diverse Cultures, Diverse Languages

Harry King retired from corporate life in Britain to live in Spain. He would do so all over again if faced with the same decision and now lives near Alicante. He is the author of a number of books on Spain.

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CASTILIAN OR...

Spanish is spoken by more than 250 million people in Spain, the Americas, and Africa. Spanish is also known as Castilian after a dialect from which the modern standard Spanish language developed. That dialect formed in the 9th century around the town of Burgos, in north central Spain (Old Castile) and, as Spain was re-conquered from the Moors, spread southward to central Spain (New Castile) around Madrid and Toledo by the 11th century. In the late 15th century the kingdoms of Castile and Leon merged with that of Aragon, and Castilian became the official language of all Spain. Castilian contains a large number of words of Arabic origin.

Outside the Iberian Peninsula, Spanish is spoken in virtually all of Central and South America except Brazil (where the closely-related Portuguese language is spoken), as well as in the Canary Islands, parts of Morocco, and the Philippines. Latin-American Spanish has a number of regional dialects; all are derived from Castilian but differ in several points from European Spanish.

Catalan, modified French, is spoken in the north east along with Valenciano, Basque and Galician. To be absolutely correct, Catalan, Basque and Galician are recognised languages, whereas Valenciano is a regional dialect. All of these languages except Euskera (Basque) are Romance languages, i.e. they evolved from Latin. Euskera is what is known as a language isolate; it is totally unrelated to these or any other languages of the world.

In today’s Spain the Constitution grants the autonomous regions of Cataluna, Galicia and the Basque country control over their own languages, cultural identity and education. The result is that there are three official Spanish languages recognised in different parts of Spain alongside that of Castilian, which foreigners recognise simply as Spanish. The alternative languages are recognised by local government as equal to Castilian. Local officials are also trying, with some success, to turn Valenciano into an official language.

Many people who encounter the Catalan and Galician languages for the first time immediately see a close similarity with Castilian Spanish and jump to the conclusion they are regional dialects blending with French and Portuguese respectively. Nothing is calculated to infuriate their speakers more, who point out they are official Spanish languages, designated by law and on an equal footing with Castilian.

Spain has always been a multi-lingual country and always subject to continual controversy over the language issue, even although the Castilian language abroad continues its rapid growth. Tension exists between the centralised state and autonomous regions and this has led to conflicts over the degree of local autonomy. The Spanish constitution is liberal, according a large measure of autonomy to the autonomous comunidades and in the cases of Cataluna, Galicia, the Basque Country and Valencia, special privileges designed to enhance cultural identity.

Children acquire regional languages or dialects in the first few years. The town in which the author lives has two primary schools; one teaches in Castilian with the compulsory second dialect Valenciano and the other teaches in Valenciano with a second language Castilian.

A good example of the complexities of a regional dialect and its pronunciation is given below:

  • Jalon –the name of a town spelt in Castilian and written on national maps;
  • Xalon –the same town spelt in Valenciano dialect seen on signposts;
  • Halon –how to pronounce it in any dialect.

English is the business language of Madrid and Barcelona, but is rarely spoken or understood in rural mainland Spain. English is understood on the Costas and Islands where waiters and shop assistants often manage some English words which they have been taught at school. Builders, repairmen, installation engineers, petrol attendants, postmen, policemen and nurses generally speak only Spanish, or Catalan, or Valenciano or...

WHY LEARN THE LANGUAGE?

It has become customary to point the finger at ex-pats who fail to learn Spanish, a chore for insular Brits who have not been accustomed to speaking or hearing a language other than their own. They now reside in their new Spanish ghettos having a more than satisfactory existence without speaking a word of Spanish. If surrounded by fellow Brits, then why speak Spanish? This means most elderly Spaniards and most elderly Brits have had little or no incentive to learn a foreign language, so for the first time Brits have to deal with people who have the same attitude as themselves. For the younger generation, schooling now gives Spaniards a taste of English while British schools still focus on French.

A foreigner away from the areas of mass tourism may well be stared at as an object of curiosity, but it is easy to turn this round by attempting to overcome the language barrier by starting a simple conversation with the odd phrase and expressive gestures. Spaniards are generally pleased when a foreigner makes an effort to speak their language. They are remarkably patient with someone who is trying to communicate, and they listen carefully in an attempt to make sense of the mangled grammar and odd vocabulary. Exactly ‘how’ it is said is less important than ‘wanting’ to say it.

It is just about possible to live in Spain without speaking Spanish. Interpreters or friends can be used as an aid to discussion. The use of body language, pointing, nodding and shrugging can also assist. Enhancement of communication with a few key words such as si, una, por favor, gracias (not necessarily in that order) is a step in the right direction.

But the non-linguist needs one other major phrase: Hable Inglès, por favor?(Can you speak English please?). Fifty or 100 or even 200 key Spanish words are used by many Brits to get by. Meals can be ordered in restaurants, goods bought in shops, neighbourly greetings exchanged and the weather discussed.

There can be no substitute for learning the Spanish language. If choosing to live in Spain, we can surely be polite and respectful by learning more than a few words of the language. For a student or someone wishing to work in a professional occupation then learning the language is an absolute necessity.

How do you learn the language? Home study courses by book and audiotapes are heavily advertised. These courses are an intensive learning medium with timing best suited to an individual. Intensive language schools operate in Spain with prospectuses aimed at a variety of levels. One of the best learning methods before leaving home is an old fashioned adult evening class at a local school or college. A bit of fun and a common purpose, together with some effort for 20–25 evenings, will get the average person to a decent standard.

WHICH REGIONAL LANGUAGE?

Catalan

By the mid-nineteenth century Barcelona rather than Madrid had become a symbol of progress and change. It pioneered its own way rather than following Madrid. In Madrid old prejudices against merchants and manual workers still prevailed among the elite who were out of touch with the new way of life. The Catalans made the transition to a modern economy and became the dynamo of Spain. Today’s Catalans stop short of demanding independence, but they will never yield their identity as being more industrious, more ambitious, more progressive and more hard working than other Spaniards.

Catalans justifiably point out that more people speak Catalan as their native language than the national language of some European countries; yet their language is not accorded the same official status outside Spain. There is considerable pressure over the issue of language and a constant struggle to ensure that Catalan receives priority in every sphere of public life. Catalan has witnessed remarkable growth but there is considerable resentment that the majority of people make little effort to learn it unless forced to do so. Outside the region the value of the language is very limited.

Shop and public services post bilingual signs, but Catalan is often the only language used to warn the public of fines for traffic violations and for smoking on the metro. There is legislation that provides generous subsidies for Catalan language films, books, choirs, lectures, radio and television programmes.

Basque (Euskera)

The Basque language (Euskera) is currently used in a narrow area of approximately 10,000 square kilometres in Spain and France. The number of Basque speakers outside that territory, in Europe and in the Americas, however, is far from insignificant. In Spain the Basque-speaking region comprises the province of Guipuzcoa, parts of Vizcaya and Navarra a corner of Alava, and in France the western region of the Pyrenees-Atlantiques. Although few statistics are available the number of speakers, who are largely bilingual, might be estimated at 1,000,000. Most of them live in the highly industrialised Spanish part of the Basque country.

Euskera is the most distinctive of languages spoken in Spain. It is neither a Romance nor an Indo-European language, and it predates the arrival of the Romans in Spain. Until the end of the 19th century Euskera was spoken mostly in the countryside, and, unlike other peninsular languages had no significant literary tradition.

In the 20th century – and especially since it was made the official language of the Basque Country in 1978 – it has been used in literature and journalism. The language issue is emotionally tied to the demand for Basque independence. Many Basque adults have had to go to special schools to learn the rudiments of a language their grandparents had stopped using a century ago. Few migrants from other areas in Spain see any point in trying to learn it unless under pressure to do so at their workplace.

Before the outbreak of the Civil War there was a blossoming of Basque cultural expression through Euskera in literature, poetry, the theatre, dance, singing, and traditional sports. In the post-war period the Franco regime tried to woo opinion in the Basque country by permitting an expression of cultural activity, but deep suspicion remained of any attempt to develop literature or make semi-official use of the language. Franco believed in one language: Castilian.

Basque is the language of instruction in some schools and is a required subject at all schools in the region. This means that practically 90% of pupils in the elementary schools in the region study bilingually or wholly in Euskera but the percentage drops to 40% for those completing high school and studying for entrance to university.

Gallego (Galician)

Gallego has many similarities to the Portuguese language. It is spoken in the autonomous community of Galicia, Spain–where almost 90% of the population spoke Galician at the turn of the 21st century – but also in adjacent regions of Portugal. It is the ancestor of modern Portuguese.

Galicia was liberated from Moorish rule with the help of nearby Asturias-Leon before the independence of Portugal. The early development of the great pilgrimage centre in Santiago de Compostela tied Galicia to other parts of Spain even though the original language was basically Portuguese. After a long decline, a renaissance of Galician took place in the 19th century modelled on the movement to revive and promote Catalan.

Galicia fell quite early in the Civil War to Nationalist forces, so Franco took a more relaxed attitude towards what was simply considered a dialect of the poor semiliterate rural population, all of whom also spoke Castilian. Franco was also born in Ferroll on the Galician coast.

About two million Galician’s out of a total of 2,700,000 speak the language along with Castilian, and are essentially bilingual, but few use it for any purpose outside the home. Many Spaniards have no difficulty at all understanding Gallego. Television comedy and drama productions can be received outside the region. Most Galician artists, actors and writers are adept at speaking and writing the language with a maximum of clarity so that Castilian speakers can readily understand more than 95% of any dialogue.

Valenciano

In the Comunidad of Valencia a variety of Catalan is spoken which local nationalists say qualifies as a language, rejecting the label of dialect. South of a line near Alicante, Castilian is used for all official purposes. In the northern area Valenciano is used.

Nothing can be more frustrating for northern Europeans retiring to the Costa Blanca, having made an attempt to learn Spanish back home to find they have settled in an area which speaks a different language altogether. The multi-language issue can often be seen in the cut and thrust of local politics where the use of Valenciano is a petty mechanism to freeze out councillors of British origin representing towns with more ex-pats than Spanish residents. The language issue does indeed create tensions!

SAYING HELLO

Irrespective of dialect the most common Spanish greeting is Hola (Hello) and Buenos dias/tardes/noches (Good morning/afternoon/evening). It is polite to use these terms together when entering a shop or if passing someone on the street.

If you are introduced to someone you have a choice of expressions; a choice that hinges on the appropriate level of familiarity. If you are introduced to an unknown adult it is best to err on the side of formality, shake hands and say something simple such as Encantado or Con mucho gusto (pleased or delighted).

It is common to hear Spaniards saying Hola, como esta usted? (Hello, how are you?) The standard response is Bien gracias (Good, thank you). When introduced to a young person, such greetings may suggest unnecessary formality. Hola or Que tall (How are you?) is a more normal greeting.

The rules about greeting with a kiss on the cheek are somewhat ambiguous. The safest advice is to shake hands rather than kiss older women. It is usually quite acceptable for younger people, when they are presented to each other, to kiss on the cheeks. It should be noted that this ‘kiss’ is the slightest of actions. Quite often lips do not even touch the skin, but rather the touch of cheek to cheek.

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