KITCHEN HIERARCHY

This information applies to larger catering companies but is of interest too to the sole trader. So it is useful if you are new to the business, and also wish to expand into a large catering company.

The professional kitchen’s cooking staff are known as the brigade. Like many kitchen words, it comes from the French and, further back, brigata, from the Italian, a company or crew, its origins a military one. Look up the word in an Italian dictionary and, ironically, you’ll find it comes from the verb brigare, ‘to brawl, wrangle or fight’.

The size of the brigade is dependent on the establishment. Many small restaurants are based on a head chef, a sous chef and/or a commis chef plus, hopefully, a kitchen porter whose job is mainly to wash up.

Or the staff may be simply the chef, relying on waiting staff to help out with washing up and lesser preparations like plating desserts, prepping breads, butter and ancillaries.

Large restaurants and catering companies have an executive chef, head chef, senior and junior sous (‘sous’ literally means ‘under’ in French) chefs, chefs de partie (those responsible for a section of the kitchen such as sauces, larder, starters, mains, vegetables and desserts), demi-chefs de partie (literally ‘half’), commis (first and second) chef. A commis, deputy or clerk, learns his or her trade from the bottom of the hierarchy. They are there to help, learn and watch.

There may also be (although it’s rare) a chef tournant – an all-purpose chef who is capable of covering all sections and who may be filling in for absent/holidaying chefs.

Definitions: from the lowest to the highest rank

Kitchen porter

Have respect for the KP, as they are affectionately known. Their job is an unenviable one of washing pots, utensils, glasses, plates – the lot – and they may also be offered the joys of prepping vegetables and washing salads. Be kind to the kitchen porter as he or she must endure repetitive tasks, which are the underpinning of the system.

Commis chef

OK, not the dream job envisaged by some but this is the job to learn by. Duties may include plating up garnishes for all courses with some cooking involved including stocks. Depending on the size of the restaurant, they may deal with stock-taking and deliveries.

Demi chef de partie

This is the next step up: running a station with more responsibilities. It is time for the chef to prove him or herself and showing a willingness to learn and work.

Chef de partie

Literally ‘head of a team’, the next quasi-military full rank up with the ability to organise other chefs. This is a managerial step up. In a small restaurant a chef de partie may be in charge of just one chef or several in a large one. Duties could include staff meals, sauces, meat and fish prep, hot starters.

Sous chef

This is the head chef’s immediate number two and is capable of doing the head chef’s job in his or her absence. In a larger kitchen there may be a junior or senior sous chef, a smaller one just the sous (under or sub) chef.

In a big kitchen, the sous chef does little cooking due to managing the kitchen, people, office work, rotas, food ordering, training: it is a position of authority. A junior sous chef is part chef, part manager.

Head chef

In a small restaurant, the head chef is responsible for all cooking, ordering, management and training. The head chef in any size kitchen is in charge. His or her only superior is the executive head chef who may be in charge of several restaurants, either independent ones or within a large company or establishment such as a hotel.

The head chef’s jobs are to create menus, write the recipes or guidelines to go with the recipes, find the best suppliers, recruit, discipline and promote staff. In the absence of a sous chef, he or she is also responsible for rotas, giving out specific jobs such as larder work, cleaning, cooking, management, and making sure the kitchen is up to scratch for hygiene and health inspections.

He or she is also responsible for reporting to overall management, discussing future strategies, any special holiday catering such as Christmas or weddings, banqueting, dealing with customer and staff issues and stocktaking checks. Liaison with front of house staff may be delegated to the sous chef.

THE KITCHEN CAREER

Depending on the type of job offered and sought after, working in a restaurant/hotel/catering company kitchen can take many directions. For a commis chef, who has a goal and has to work through a tough time, it can seem insuperable, but under a good head chef this period of learning is worth it.

A commis working for a small business is part of a small brigade and works in all stations. He or she may learn more quickly – and well – if the head chef is good and eager to pass on knowledge and expertise.

In large cities and in a large restaurant/hotel/catering company a commis chef might find the whole process more daunting due to the sheer numbers in the kitchen, and will stay only if given the right treatment in the establishment. But they can move on to other restaurants crying out for staff at this level – and – will if the money and treatment is better.

The fast track to learning in the business is to be a commis in a good, small restaurant/hotel/catering company with maybe four or five chefs, and to be introduced to all stages of cooking. Finding commis chefs who are willing to learn and committed to the job is of paramount importance, in particular to the small- or medium-sized restaurant.

Financially, it is not viable to have several chefs of the same ranking unless business is booming, hence the importance of a keen (and less well paid) commis chef. But do see beyond the cooking skills when interviewing for this position (as described in the section on interviewing staff). The right attitude is of equal importance.

Women chefs

Who says they can’t take the pace? There is this myth around – circulated by misogynists – that women aren’t strong enough, can’t stand the bad language and have an unfortunate attitude to getting on in the kitchen. They cry a lot, they can’t lift heavy stock pots, they are moody because of their periods. They can’t stand the pace and get flustered easily. Poppycock!

Women have a lot to prove – still – in this male-dominated trade. Many are perceived as being only good as pastry chefs. The discrimination is still quite breath-taking. This is perhaps why I opened and ran a restaurant for eight years in Sussex as chef/owner rather than work for unsympathetic, bullying characters. Of course it is a demanding job but we women can hack it, and offer many good traits, attention to detail being just one.

Witness head chefs Sally Clarke (Clarke’s), Angela Hartnett (The Connaught), Ruth Rogers and Rose Gray (River Cafe), Samantha Clark (Moro), Helena Poulakka (Sonny’s), all London-based. And Sonia Brooke-Little, Churchill Arms, Paxford, Gloucestershire, and Shirley Spear and Isobel Tomlin at the Three Chimneys, Isle of Skye. They represent some of the many excellent women head chefs in Britain. For the most part, they are too busy to constantly shout about their prowess in the kitchen.

Caterers of both sexes work in the business with many small companies run by women. There is no sex barrier or age barrier.

KITCHEN AND WAITING STAFF WORKING TOGETHER

Management is responsible for getting the relationship balance right or, at least, recognising the differing tensions within these two groups and settling any disputes and grievances that can build up.

The old adage that the customer is always right can be challenged here when it comes to food. When it is ready, it is at its peak condition and should be served immediately. But large parties can be notoriously difficult to get to sit down at their respective tables. When this happens, communication is extremely vital between these two groups.

For example, the waiter judges the timing of each table and reports back to the kitchen if diners are taking an inordinate amount of time over the first course, for example. Or, conversely, if faster service is required.

If the latter doesn’t understand the former’s work pattern and degree of skill in putting each dish together then trust, confidence and ability to communicate effectively breaks down.

This is where management comes in and should be aware of tension building up. Turn the tables and get them to perform each other’s work or at least shadow different sections to understand their challenges and difficulties.

STAFF BEHAVIOUR

Your waiting and kitchen staff reflect the kind of catering company you are running. Therefore, make sure of the following.

Appearance

If staff have a uniform, make sure it is clean, pressed, uniform in style and well-fitting. If you operate a no-uniform policy, then stipulate what your staff should wear and be vigilant as to the characteristics as mentioned above. Do stipulate too the type of shoes, that they should be in good repair and cleaned regularly, and the policy on the wearing of jewellery, make-up, style of hair. I am totally opposed to any jewellery apart from a simple wedding ring and instruct staff to remove any jewellery including ear or nose studs. The same goes for too much make-up, an elaborate hairstyle and haircombs.

Hygiene

All staff should have short, clean, unvarnished nails and must wash their hands after a fag break, going to the loo or returning to duty after going to the shops, handling stock from a van, etc.

All of the above applies too to kitchen staff. The cleanliness of their aprons, chefs’ jackets and the wearing of head gear are of paramount importance not only to the overall standards of hygiene but also if seen by clients and guests (these are possible future clients after all) who will judge the business accordingly.

No kitchen clothing such as chefs’ jackets should be worn outside the premises as it could introduce dirt and germs on return into the kitchen.

Smoking

Smoking is a vexed question in the catering trade as there is a high ratio of smokers to non-smokers, who simply can’t live without a fag break.

• Be strict about fag breaks as it is unfair on the non-smokers who have to pick up the slack.
• Make sure that smokers are not seen by clients or guests hovering by an open door or by the bins as this really does give a wrong impression.
• All smokers should wash their hands before service. If there is an all-pervading smell of smoke it can be a real turn-off for the customer (smoky clothes, breath, hands).

Drugs

If you suspect any staff member has a drug problem, deal with it. If they come in late, don’t turn up at all or show signs of drug and alcohol abuse, do you really want this kind of behaviour in your business? No.

SERVICE

A good waiting staff member is able to relate to clients’ and guests’ needs. Self-respect and respect of others is paramount as is professionalism and efficiency. A good memory is also important.

Make sure waiting staff know what the chosen menu is and if there are any special dietary requirements that have been pre-ordered by the client.

Waiting staff must not only be aware of what the dishes consist of but also the wines they are serving. They should be knowledgeable about all the drinks on offer. It should not be just guesswork on their part. What kind of coffee do you buy? What is the wine being served?

Waiting staff should make sure that there is sufficient space on the table before serving plates, vegetables, wine bottles, butter, bread and other items. It’s no good just pushing things around the table to fit them in, as it creates tension with the guest and a feeling of not being looked after appropriately. A kind of take it or leave it attitude.

Lasting impressions: dos and don’ts

All staff should say goodbye as warmly as when they greeted guests on arrival. This will create a lasting impression.

• Don’t fawn or ingratiate yourself or be over-familiar.
• Don’t be loud or noisy.
• Don’t ever, ever be rude.
• Do be friendly, pleasant, efficient and professional.

Tips for professional waiting skills

• Serve from the left and remove from the right.
• Hold the plate by placing four fingers under it, with the thumb on the side and not on the surface of the plate.
• When holding two plates in one hand, balance one plate on the forearm by the wrist, with three fingers under the top plate, thumb and small finger on the rim of the lower plate.
• Clear plates by balancing one plate as above for cutlery, the stronger part of the forearm and wrist bearing the weight of the cleared plates.
• Serve drinks on the right where the glass is positioned.
• Always hold glasses by their stem, never the bowl.
• Clear the table after each course, leaving it set for the next course.
• Always make sure the table is left cleared ready for dessert or coffee with the removal of salt and pepper and unnecessary cutlery, for example.
• Clear plates only when everyone at a table has finished eating. It is gives the wrong impression, i.e. you’re hurrying them, if cleared at different times, making the slower eater at the table feel awkward.

Management skills

A good caterer shows self-confidence, has a complete understanding of the operation, maintains a good rapport between catering staff, client and guests and possesses charm.

He or she is a leader, takes responsibility and can delegate well but must also be able to be hands-on without undermining other staff, e.g. showing them up before clients, guests and other staff members.

The same dos and don’ts apply too to the caterer as well as to waiting staff (see dress code, smoking, behaviour and service above).

STAFF ROTAS

Rotas are a vital tool for any catering company, large or small. At a glance, everyone can see who is working or having time off. They are made up on a weekly basis but, with good management and knowledge of all the catering jobs, they can be worked out several weeks ahead of time, taking into consideration holidays, days off, staff shortages, overtime or busy times of year with more staff required.

It is important to put your managerial skills into practice here and be as fair to all staff members as possible. For example, unless specifically asked for, don’t pile all the evening work on some staff members. Give them equal numbers of day shifts as their co-workers so they have a night off with their family and friends.

Include cleaning and refrigeration temperature checking too on staff rotas so that they are brought to the forefront. They should be seen as a necessary part of the working week, not just something to be fitted in as and when, or done in a desultory fashion, or even forgotten.

Print out staff rotas and preferably re-print if there are a number of changes so that confusion doesn’t arise. Otherwise, a member of staff may not turn up, mistakenly thinking that he or she had swapped duties.

Below is an example of a staff rota for a small catering company.

Staff	Tuesday	Wednesday	Thursday	Friday	Saturday	Sunday
Annie:	8am–8pm	10am–6pm	off	9am–2pm	4pm–11pm	10am–6pm
co-owner				6pm–11pm
Charlie:	off	10am–6pm	9am–6pm	10am–2pm	11am–7pm	10am–4pm
co-owner				6pm–11pm
KP 1	off	10am–6pm	off	9am–5pm	10am–6pm	off
Kay
KP 2	9am–6pm	off	9am–5pm	5pm–11pm	off	9am–5pm
Andy
Alice	off	11am–4pm	10am–2pm	6pm–11pm	5pm–12pm	11am–5pm
Bill	Off	Off	Off	10am–2pm	10am–2pm	11am–5pm
				6pm–11pm	6pm–1pm

CLEANING

Cleaning is an essential part of any food business. It minimises the risk of food contamination and infestation, and provides a pleasant and safe working environment.

To be effective, cleaning must be planned and incorporated into the staff rota.

• Adopt a clean-as-you-go policy with spillages and food debris when preparing food.
• Draw up a list of all items of equipment and areas for cleaning and how often they need to be cleaned.
• Compile a separate list for toilet maintenance and cleaning.
• Specify what materials and equipment need to be used for equipment and areas.
• Also specify who is responsible for these jobs.
• Prepare a comprehensive scheduled programme.
• Review the programme if there is a new piece of equipment or a new area.
• Store cleaning materials away from all food.
• Keep cleaning materials in their original containers.
• Don’t mix cleaning materials as noxious fumes can be given off.
• Wash hands after using any cleaning materials.

BRIEFING WAITING STAFF

Staff should arrive two hours before a large function such as a buffet or dinner to set up and to be given a briefing. Staff should stay for at least half an hour after the last guest has left so that all clearing up can take place. For a drinks party, depending on the size, ask staff to come an hour to an hour and a half before guests are due to arrive.

It is important to be clear and to brief them when they arrive. Tell them:

• the timings for guests’ arrival, meal service and expected end of event;
• the number of guests;
• the menu and any special catering requirements such as vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, dairy-free meals and who they are for;
• the drinks and wines to serve (or to keep replenishing the tables for guests to help themselves);
• any special wishes of the client for the table (e.g. place name cards);
• where all the equipment is to be found and what to do with dirty plates etc on clearing;
• where coffee and tea is to be served (in reception area or at the table?);
• where coats and hats are stored;
• where staff can leave their belongings;
• where the toilets are;
• what the staff will have to eat and when to take a break.

Remind them to:

• set up the bar and tables;
• clear ashtrays and replace them;
• clear pre-dinner drinks and nibbles from the reception area;
• clear the dining room, reception and kitchen areas, including the washing up and putting away, at the end of the function.

When hiring staff, provide a meal if they are working for four hours or more. It is standard practice for the client to pay for a taxi home if the party finishes after buses and tubes have stopped for the night.