ANDALUCIA – SOUTHERN SPAIN

So to Andalucia, a large area extending across the south of the country incorporating the deserts of Almeria, the wetlands of Donana, the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada and the beaches of the Costa del Sol. The inland cities of Granada, Cordoba and Sevilla share a rich Moorish heritage. It is the home of many white walled villages. The capital Sevilla rivals Barcelona for fine city living.

Food

The food of this area has been heavily influenced by its historic Arab inhabitants. Traditionally almonds, rice, lemons, oranges, grapes and olives were grown. Today’s crops now include strawberries, apples, melons, cherries and pears. Gazpacho, a soup served chilled, is made from olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, cucumber, vinegar and peppers. Barbecued meats, sauces flavoured with cumin or saffron, sweets made from crushed almonds are all typical dishes. Grilled fish, especially sardines and calamares (squid), and whole fish baked in a crust of salt, are popular dishes.

Sevilla

El Arenal, a district of Sevilla, was once home to an ammunition factory and artillery headquarters but now the atmosphere is set by the city’s majestic bullring called the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza. During the bull-fighting season the bars and restaurants are packed, but for the rest of the year the wide Quadalquivir River is enjoyed by many on boat trips. The barrio of Santa Cruz is Sevilla’s other district. It was the old Jewish quarter: a warren of white alleyways and flower decked patios, now representing Sevilla at its most romantic and compact. The maze of narrow streets hide tapas bars, plazas, and up-market residences. Ornamental orange trees line the streets, their bittersweet taste suitable for making marmalade. It was, however, Expo ‘92 which focused world attention on Sevilla where over one hundred countries were represented in the many pavilions which displayed scientific, technological and cultural exhibits.

Although hot, Sevilla has excellent shopping facilities with some European chain stores represented in its modern streets. Premier living is available in this city where all the stereotypes of Andalusia meet in its capital. Town houses are available. There are few big apartment blocks. By travelling only a few kilometres from the city walls the rural delights of the countryside open up and detached white walled properties are available at very reasonable prices.

Almeria

To the west lies Almeria. This major crop growing area is covered by acres and acres of plastic sheeting as it is a huge supplier of fruit and vegetables to the rest of Europe. A pleasant place is Mojacar, its white houses cascading over a lofty ridge inland from a long sandy beach. People settle here. The area is noted for Europe’s only desert, the Trabernas, made famous as the location for spaghetti Westerns such as “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly’ starring Clint Eastwood.

Costa del Sol

It may be one the most over developed strips of coastline in the world, but thanks to 300 days of sunshine per year this area of Spain is home to many. It hosts the jet set sophistication of Marbella, and over 30 golf courses lying just inland. There are many resorts aimed at the mass tourist market, but some of the older developments, just south of Malaga, have a tired, well-worn look, with planners now facing the difficult task of possible demolition.

The highlight of the area is unquestionably Marbella, a stylish resort with Puerto Banus its ostentatious marina. Expensive shops, restaurants and glittering nightlife reflect the wealth of its inhabitants and visitors. Close behind is the up and coming Sotogrande, an exclusive resort of luxury villas with a marina and golf course. Estepona is quieter, not so built-up and not attached to the long concrete strip that unfortunately is a characteristic of this Costa. Nerja and Almunecar too are gleaming white modern towns, good examples of popular residential areas. Malaga is another fine city with a thriving port. Its new shopping centre presents an interesting blend of the old and the new.

There are other towns but for the property seeker it is best to give them a miss. A home of high rise holiday hotels, perhaps less brash than it was, adequately describes Torremolinos and Fuengirola.

A few miles inland from the coast at Malaga a different Spain opens up. Lots of greenery, with many thousands of classical white houses covering the slopes of rounded hills. Even small towns are cut into the contours of the landscape. For a person looking for something different, and wishing to blend into the lifestyle of Andalucia, then this is the place to be. Many people move here, their initial hard toil being rewarded with an individual property, either carefully renovated or newly designed. This is the land of the finca, a country house surrounded by orange, lemon, olive and almond trees, possibly lacking in all mod cons, but well away from other humans. It is rural life... where time is not important.

Gibraltar

Gibraltar is not in Spain. It is governed by the United Kingdom. Joint sovereignty seems to be the way ahead but in the meantime, economically it stands alone. It’s future as a strategic entrance to the Mediterranean seems less important as time goes by. A small community, isolated from the rest of Spain by artificial political barriers, it’s future is uncertain. The economy of the Rock depends on a naval dockyard, tourism, tax-free shopping and financial services. There are few houses to buy.

Costa de la Luz

The Coast of Light is situated to the west of Gibraltar facing the Atlantic. Spain’s southernmost tip is an unspoilt, windswept stretch of coast characterised by strong pure light – hence the name. Other than Cadiz, which is almost entirely surrounded by water; Jerez, the capital of sherry production; the Donana National Park, an area of wetlands, sand dunes and marshland – the region has little to commend itself. Few people settle here.

Inland

Instead of settling on the fertile plains, some Andalusians chose to live in fortified hilltop towns now known as pueblos blancos (white towns) whitewashed in the Moorish tradition and today working agricultural villages. Ronda is the most well known. It is generally accepted that there are eight or nine white working towns, more suitable for touring or visiting than for residence. Similarly the Alpujarras, on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada, has many irregularly shaped white houses clinging to its hillsides.

Granada and Cordoba are old Moorish cities. Surprisingly, given the culture of the Alhambra, a Moorish piece of architecture representing paradise on earth and regarded as the eighth wonder of the world, Granada is a relatively inexpensive place to live. The benefits of hiking and skiing in the nearby Sierra Nevada mountains compensate a little for the cold winters and baking hot summers.